If you think vegetarian sushi means a few cucumber rolls, Rai’s new vegetarian omakase in Fitzrovia will change your mind. I tried the chef-led tasting menu, with its Champagne and wine pairing, at this contemporary Japanese restaurant near Tottenham Court Road, and it did not disappoint.
Tucked away on Bayley Street, a couple of minutes’ walk from Tottenham Court Road, Rai is the kind of restaurant you could easily walk past. That would be a mistake. Behind the understated frontage is one of the most intimate places for modern Japanese dining in London, where traditional craft meets creative, contemporary cooking. At its heart is omakase, a chef-led tasting experience, and its new vegetarian omakase menu goes well beyond the usual cucumber maki and vegetable tempura.
The Restaurant
Rai is small by design. There are just seven tables and twelve seats at the sushi counter, so the room feels calm and personal rather than busy. The decoration is minimalist and intimate: delicate Japanese acers and a small fountain bring a sense of a Japanese garden indoors. Definitely grown-up dining rather than a place to bring the kids.
The Chef
Rai is led by Executive Chef Padam Rai, who has more than 24 years of experience. Originally from Nepal and trained in Osaka, he worked as a sushi chef in several of London’s Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants before co-founding Hot Stone in Fitzrovia. Rai is his most personal project: modern Japanese cooking rooted in tradition, with a light touch of British influence. The kitchen takes its ingredients seriously, including Koshihikari rice from Niigata, Sanpuku nori from Japan’s Ariake Sea, soy sauces aged in cedar barrels, and fresh wasabi grated just before serving.
The recognition is deserved. Rai holds two AA Rosettes and is rated among the top 1% of restaurants in London.
What is Omakase?
Omakase is a Japanese dining style meaning “I leave it up to you”. Instead of ordering from a menu, you trust the chef to choose and serve a sequence of dishes based on the best ingredients of the day, one course at a time.
It is traditionally associated with sushi counters, where the chef prepares each piece in front of you and serves it the moment it is ready. At Rai, that same philosophy extends to the vegetarian menu.
The Vegetarian Omakase Menu
The Vegetarian Tasting Menu (£75, with a Premium version at £87, subject to availability) combines a classic vegetarian sushi omakase with more creative fusion dishes, and it never feels like an afterthought to the fish menu.
We started with asparagus tartlets with yuzu emulsion and avocado and nori cannelloni with citrus caviar. Crispy nori is wrapped around a soft, creamy avocado filling. Such a clever play on textures.
The new-style sashimi omakase was a delightful surprise. Watermelon carpaccio stands in for fish, and, with a firm, glossy texture, it looks convincing. It was paired with an avocado sorbet and mango sauce.
The matcha ricotta with beetroot, cucumber and carrot tsukemono was the most beautifully presented dish of the evening. Its vibrant colours, creamy tofu ricotta, and earthy flavours worked perfectly together.
Then came the vegetarian sushi omakase, topped with mushrooms and complimented by a warming tofu and miso soup.
The grilled cauliflower with miso and parsnip purée and genmaicha butter was my least favourite dish but still boasted lots of comforting and savoury flavours.
For dessert, a light blood orange yuzu sorbet with poached plums topped with cucumber and sisho granita and dark chocolate truffles with a citrus filling brought the evening to a close.
Not Vegetarian? What Else is On The Menu
If you are dining with meat and fish eaters, Rai has plenty to offer them too. Alongside classic sushi and sashimi omakase, the kitchen serves A5 Japanese wagyu and certified Kobe beef from Hyogo Prefecture. Rai is one of a handful of UK restaurants licensed to serve it, and it is cooked ishiyaki-style on a hot volcanic stone. The same care for sourcing runs through every menu, from the Koshihikari rice and Sanpuku nori to the aged soy sauces and freshly grated wasabi, so a mixed table can share the experience without anyone feeling short-changed.
The Champagne and Wine Pairing
We were also treated to a Champagne and wine pairing alongside the menu. The wines matched the food perfectly and made the whole experience even more enjoyable:
- Morgassi Superiore “Volo”, Gavi DOCG del Comune di Gavi: a crisp Italian white wine from Piedmont with citrus and apple notes.
- Charles Baker Riesling 2019, Vinemount Ridge VQA: a Canadian Riesling not too sweet and well balanced.
- Grand Tokaj Terroir Selection Late Harvest 2023: a Hungarian sweet wine from Tokaj, perfect to end the meal.
Service
The service was warm, friendly and attentive without being intrusive. Staff explained each dish and wine with obvious enthusiasm, which suits the personal, chef-led spirit of omakase.
The Verdict
Rai proves that a vegetarian omakase can be every bit as exciting as its fish-based equivalent. Chef Padam Rai’s menu moves easily from classic sushi to inventive fusion dishes, the drinks pairing is thoughtful and surprising, and the small, peaceful dining room makes the whole evening feel special. For flexitarians, vegetarians, or anyone who wants to eat more plants without compromising on flavour, it is well worth booking.
RAI: The Essentials
- Address: 11–13 Bayley Street, London WC1B 3HD
- Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road (about four minutes’ walk)
- Website: www.rairestaurant.com
- Book a Table: www.rairestaurant.com
Disclosure: we were guests of Rai for this meal, including the Champagne and wine pairing. As always, all opinions are my own.
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